Type 4 natural hair, especially 4C, is beautifully unique, full of texture, and incredibly versatile. However, styling it can sometimes feel like a challenge due to shrinkage, product selection, and achieving the right look. As someone who’s been through the ups and downs of this journey, I’m here to share some tried-and-true tips that will help you navigate the world of type 4 hair with confidence.
Combating Shrinkage
Shrinkage is often a major challenge when styling type 4 hair, especially 4C. While embracing shrinkage and celebrating your hair’s natural state is a key part of the natural hair movement—and a beautiful and empowering choice—I’m personally all about showcasing my length. Let’s face it, sometimes shrinkage can be a bit jarring, and there’s nothing wrong with wanting to flaunt your fabulous inches!
So while shrinkage is a natural part of our hair’s texture and a sign of its health, there are ways to manage it for styling purposes.
1. Styling on Stretched Hair
One effective way to reduce shrinkage is by styling on stretched hair. A quick and low manipulation way can be achieved using the tension method with a blow dryer. Here’s how you do it:
- Step 1: After washing and conditioning your hair, divide it into sections.
- Step 2: Using a blow dryer with a nozzle attachment, gently stretch each section of hair by pulling it taut while directing the heat along the length. This will elongate your hair ready for styling.
- Step 3: Once your hair is sufficiently stretched, you can proceed with your desired style, be it a stretched undefined look, twist-out, braid-out, puff, or any other look.
Personally, me and this method followed by a braid out are locked innn🤞🏽🤞🏽.
2. Post-Style Stretching
Sometimes, even after you’ve styled your hair, you might want a little extra length. This is where post-style stretching comes in:
- Step 1: After completing a style like a twist-out or braid-out, take each section and gently stretch it using the tension method.
- Step 2: Hold the hair taut and apply a blow dryer briefly to set the stretch.
Keep in mind that this method may cause some frizz, but if you’re aiming for a stretched, voluminous look, it’s a great trick to have up your sleeve.
3. Heat-Free Stretching
If you personally prefer to avoid heat altogether, you can still stretch your hair effectively:
- Braiding or Twisting: After washing, braid or twist your hair in large sections and leave it to dry. This method stretches your curls naturally, reducing shrinkage while keeping your hair healthy and hydrated.
- Banding: Divide your hair into sections and wrap each section with hair bands or thread from root to tip. Leave it overnight, and the next day, your hair will be stretched without any heat.
Which Stylers to Use
Choosing the right stylers is crucial for achieving your desired look. Here’s a breakdown of what works best for different styles:
1. Twist-Outs & Braid-Outs and Other Set Styles
For styles like twist-outs and braid-outs, creams and mousses are ideal:
Mousses and creams offer a light to medium hold that allows the hair to maintain its natural movement and bounce.
In contrast, gels tend to offer a stronger, more rigid hold, which is better suited for styles that need to stay in place without much movement, such as slick backs or defined wash-and-gos.
2. Wash ‘n Go
For wash ‘n go styles, it’s all about water-based products:
- Gels: Gels help define your curls and keep them in place. It’s important to use gels that are water-based for hydration and to aid with curl definition. Gels offer a firmer hold than mousses or creams, which is essential for keeping curls in place and preventing frizz. Gels are excellent at clumping curls together, which is key to achieving defined curls in a wash-and-go style. The product helps to smooth the hair’s cuticle and reduce frizz, making each curl more distinct and uniform.
- Mousses: Just like with set styles, mousses are great for wash ‘n gos as they enhance curl definition without weighing down your hair and without the crunch!
Pro Tip: Avoid using oils and butters in your wash ‘n go routine as these can hinder curl formation. These products can coat your hair and prevent water from penetrating, leading to dry, undefined curls.
Best Gels for Type 4 Hair Slick Backs
Ahh, the slick back… One of my absolute favourite styles because it’s effortlessly quick, easy, and a guaranteed success every time <3 And yes, this is coming from a 4c girly to all my fellow 4c ladies out there who might be thinking, “My 4c hair could never” 😉
Achieving a sleek, polished slick back on type 4 hair can be tricky, but with the right products, it’s absolutely doable. Here are my top recommendations:
1. Gummy Wax (for dry hair)
Gummy wax is a game-changer for slick backs on dry hair. It provides a strong hold and smooth finish, perfect for creating that sleek, polished look without the need for water. One advantage of using gummy wax is that it helps keep your natural waves from showing through, making it ideal for blending with a straight ponytail or similar styles. Since gummy wax contains no water, it effectively keeps curls at bay, maintaining a sleek, smooth look.
Gummy wax doesn’t work well on wet hair primarily because it is designed to be used on dry hair for maximum hold and control. When applied to wet hair, the water creates a barrier that prevents the wax from adhering properly to the hair strands. This can result in a less effective hold, making it difficult to achieve the desired sleek or sculpted look. Additionally, wet hair can dilute the wax, causing it to lose its effectiveness and create a sticky, uneven texture instead of the smooth finish it provides on dry hair.
2. Water based gel (for wet hair)
If you’re going for a slick back on damp or wet hair, a water-based gel is your best bet. Opt for your favorite strong-hold gels like Eco Styler, Wetline Xtreme, Shea Moisture, or Mielle. These gels provide excellent hold and shine when applied to wet hair.
Pro Tip: When slicking back your hair, use a fine-tooth comb or a bristle brush to smooth the hair and ensure an even application of the product. This helps in achieving a sleek, polished finish.
To complete your sleek look, the right gel is just the beginning. You’ll also need a silk scarf tied snugly around your hair for at least 10 minutes. I usually keep my scarf on until I’m about to leave the house, and if I’m really pressed for time, I’ll even travel with it on and remove it right before I reach my destination—whether that’s in the car, on the bus, or on the train. This trick ensures your hair stays smooth and moulded into the perfect shape as the product sets.
Achieving Natural Curl Definition
Curl definition is something that many type 4 naturals, especially 4C naturals believe they cannot obtain and that it’s only reserved for looser curl textures. Well to the girlies who believe in this you couldn’t be more wrong! Here’s why…
1. Hydration is Key
Your hair thrives on moisture. To achieve defined, healthy curls, it’s essential to keep your hair hydrated.
Hydration, primarily through regular washing and the use of water-based products, ensures that each curl is plump, smooth, and retains its shape. Well-hydrated curls are more likely to clump together and form distinct, bouncy ringlets, which is key to achieving and maintaining natural curl definition.
- Frequent Washing: Contrary to some beliefs, frequent washing (using the right products) helps keep your hair hydrated. Washing your hair regularly removes build-up and allows moisture to penetrate your strands.
Check out my previous post “The importance of weekly wash days for your natural hair care routine” for more detail on the benefits of frequent washing here!
2. Limit Hydrophobic Ingredients
Hydrophobic ingredients like heavy oils and butters can create a barrier that prevents moisture from entering your hair. While these products are great for sealing in moisture, they should be used sparingly:
- Choose Water-Attracting Products: Opt for leave-ins, creams, mousses and gels packed with water-attracting ingredients such as humectants (bonus points if they are listed within the first 5 ingredients).
- Avoid Overuse of Oils and Butters: These products are excellent for sealing moisture but should be used in moderation. Overuse can lead to build-up, making your hair feel greasy and dry over time.
Conclusion
Styling type 4 natural hair is a journey of discovery and learning what works best for your unique texture. With the right techniques and products, you can embrace the beauty of your natural hair and achieve any style you desire. Remember, it’s all about maintaining moisture, choosing the right products, and caring for your hair in a way that promotes health and growth. So go ahead, experiment with these tips, and slay those natural styles with confidence!
With love,
A type 4 natural ♥