Did you know that an estimated 33-40% of women—especially those over 40—experience traction alopecia? But don’t be fooled into thinking this condition only affects older women. Traction alopecia can start early, often due to years of tight hairstyles, excessive tension, and damaging styling habits.
If you’ve noticed thinning edges, bald spots, or hair loss around your hairline, you could be dealing with traction alopecia. Your edges are the most fragile hairs on your scalp, and when exposed to continuous pulling, they can weaken, break, and, if left untreated, lead to permanent hair loss.
But the good news? Traction alopecia can be reversed—if caught early! In this post, we’ll explore:
✅ The science behind traction alopecia—causes, symptoms, and treatments
✅ The worst hairstyles for your hairline health (avoid these at all costs!)
✅ The top edge-friendly protective styles that prevent tension damage
Before we dive into the best protective styles, let’s break down what traction alopecia is, why it happens, and how you can stop it before it’s too late.
What is traction alopecia? Understanding the science behind tension-induced hair loss
Traction alopecia is a type of hair loss caused by continuous tension on the hair follicles, often from tight hairstyles like braids, cornrows, and sleek ponytails. Over time, excessive pulling weakens the hair roots, leading to thinning edges, bald spots, and, in severe cases, permanent hair loss.
However, early-stage traction alopecia is reversible. If caught in time, the damage can be stopped, and hair can regrow. But long-term tension can result in scarring alopecia, where the follicles become permanently damaged, making regrowth impossible.
This condition disproportionately affects Black women due to common styling practices that prioritise sleekness and longevity over hair health. While these styles are culturally significant, they can cause irreversible damage when worn too tightly or too often.
How traction alopecia develops
According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), traction alopecia occurs due to prolonged pulling on the hair follicles. The process typically follows these stages:
- Excessive tension from tight styles puts stress on the roots
- Prolonged pulling causes inflammation around the follicles
- The follicles weaken, leading to gradual thinning and hair loss
- Repeated tension can permanently damage follicles, preventing regrowth
How to prevent traction alopecia
Since traction alopecia is mechanically induced, it can be prevented by adopting gentler styling habits. This blog post will explore:
- The best protective styles for maintaining healthy edges
- Effective treatments for traction alopecia
- Hairstyles that can contribute to hairline thinning
- Expert tips for minimising tension while styling
Understanding the causes of traction alopecia is the first step towards protecting your hair and preventing long-term damage.
Protective styles that can cause hair loss/traction alopecia and should be avoided
Not all protective styles are created equal. Some put significant stress on the hairline, leading to thinning edges and an increased risk of traction alopecia. While these styles may offer length retention, they can also cause long-term damage if worn too tightly or too frequently.
Here are the protective styles that should be approached with caution.
Tight braids and cornrows
- Excessive pulling can lead to hairline thinning
- Can cause headaches and scalp tenderness
- Hair breakage often starts at the temples
Tight braids and cornrows, particularly when installed with heavy extensions, put extreme tension on the scalp. Over time, this repeated stress can weaken hair follicles, leading to bald spots, especially around the hairline and temples.
To minimise the risk:
- Ensure braids and cornrows are installed loosely to reduce tension
- Avoid heavy extensions that put extra weight on your natural hair
- Give your hairline a break between installations to allow recovery
Crochet braids
- Pulls on the scalp due to added hair weight close to the follicle
- Difficult to access the scalp for moisturising
- Can create friction that weakens the edges
Crochet braids are a popular protective style, but the way they are installed can be damaging. The cornrows underneath are often braided too tightly, and the added hair is attached close to the scalp, creating uneven weight distribution. This can cause excessive tension on the edges, making them more prone to thinning.
To reduce damage:
- Request looser cornrows to avoid excessive pulling on the hairline
- Choose lightweight crochet hair to prevent excess weight on the scalp
- Moisturise the scalp regularly to prevent dryness and irritation
High ponytails and slicked-back styles
- Constant pulling weakens the hairline over time
- Gel and edge control products can cause buildup
- Often leads to traction alopecia
Wearing tight, high ponytails or sleek buns frequently can contribute to receding edges and thinning hairline. The constant tension combined with the use of strong-hold gels can suffocate the hair follicles, slowing down growth and increasing breakage.
To prevent damage:
- Wear ponytails and buns loosely instead of pulling them too tightly
- Use edge control sparingly to avoid excessive product buildup
- Give your hairline a break by switching up styles regularly
Heavy box braids or faux locs
- Adds excessive weight to natural hair
- Can cause breakage around the perimeter
- Prolonged wear increases scalp tension
Box braids and faux locs can be beautiful and long-lasting, but when they are too heavy or installed too tightly, they put undue stress on the edges and scalp. Over time, this can lead to gradual thinning, especially around the perimeter of the hair.
To make these styles safer:
- Opt for lightweight hair extensions to reduce tension on the roots
- Request a looser installation to avoid excessive pulling
- Limit how long you wear these styles to prevent prolonged stress on the scalp
Protective styles that are gentle on your edges
If you want to retain length while keeping your hairline intact, choosing low-tension protective styles is essential. Tight hairstyles that pull at the scalp can weaken the hair follicles over time, leading to thinning edges and traction alopecia. Instead, opt for styles that protect your hair while minimising stress on the roots. Here are the best protective styles for maintaining a healthy hairline.
Mini twists
✔ Lightweight and low-maintenance
✔ Allows easy access to the scalp for hydration
✔ No added hair required, reducing tension on follicles
Mini twists are one of the gentlest protective hairstyles because they place minimal stress on the hairline. Unlike styles that require extensions, mini twists are done with your natural hair, eliminating the risk of excessive pulling. They also help lock in moisture, which is essential for preventing breakage and dryness.
For best results:
- Install them loosely to avoid unnecessary tension on your scalp
- Moisturise regularly by spritzing with water and sealing with a light oil
- Sleep with a satin or silk scarf to maintain hydration and reduce friction
Knotless braids
✔ Distributes weight evenly, reducing scalp tension
✔ More comfortable and longer-lasting than traditional box braids
✔ A great option for those who prefer a long-lasting protective style
Knotless braids are a safer alternative to traditional box braids because they begin with your natural hair and gradually incorporate extensions. This technique reduces the strain on your roots, making them a gentler choice for your edges.
To make knotless braids even more edge-friendly:
- Request a loose installation—braids that are too tight can still cause breakage
- Avoid excessive length or weight—heavier braids put more stress on the scalp
- Give your hairline a break by wearing your braids down or in loose styles
Loose cornrows or flat twists
✔ Keeps hair protected without excessive pulling
✔ Ideal for tucking away fragile ends
✔ Easier to remove than tight braids
Cornrows and flat twists are popular protective styles, but when done too tightly, they can contribute to hairline thinning. The key to preventing traction alopecia is to ensure they are installed loosely and in larger sections rather than small, tight braids.
For a tension-free style:
- Avoid gripping the hairline too tightly when braiding or twisting
- Opt for larger sections rather than thin, scalp-hugging braids
- Keep them in for a shorter duration—no more than two to three weeks
Low ponytails or loose buns
✔ Prevents stress on the scalp and hairline
✔ Keeps hair tucked away without excessive pulling
✔ Can be styled with satin scrunchies to minimise breakage
High, tight ponytails can cause receding edges and tension headaches, so opting for a low ponytail or loose bun is a much safer alternative. By keeping your ponytail positioned at the nape of your neck, you reduce stress on the hairline, preventing unnecessary breakage.
For maximum hair protection:
- Use a satin or silk scrunchie instead of tight elastic bands
- Keep the bun or ponytail loose to avoid tension
- Switch up your parting regularly to prevent repetitive strain on one area
Final thoughts
Preventing traction alopecia starts with choosing the right protective styles and minimising tension on your hairline. By opting for gentle, low-manipulation styles, keeping your scalp moisturised, and allowing your edges time to recover, you can avoid unnecessary hair loss and maintain healthy hair growth. If caught early, traction alopecia can be reversed, but long-term damage can lead to permanent follicle loss. Prevention is always better than treatment, and making small adjustments to your styling habits now can protect your hairline in the long run.If you are already experiencing significant hair thinning or bald spots, treatment options exist to help encourage regrowth. However, that is a more complex process, which will be covered in a separate blog post. Stay tuned for an in-depth guide on traction alopecia treatments and hair regrowth strategies.