Natural hair care is evolving as we uncover more information about our unique hair needs. For many years, natural hair has been under-researched, a neglect rooted in systemic racism. However, times are changing, and things are improving for us! This shift has brought waves of new information and knowledge, debunking centuries-old traditional hair care practices that we once considered normal. One such practice concerns our hair care routine and how frequently those of us with kinky, coily hair should wash our natural hair.
It was widely believed that due to issues like hair dryness and breakage, we should wash our hair as infrequently as possible—ranging from bi-weekly to once a month or even less. Like it’s crazy to think that being able to count with our two hands how many times in a year we washed our was normal (sigh).
Let’s debunk these myths and explore the benefits of more frequent washing!
So how often should black people wash their hair?
The short answer to this is every 5-14 days, with weekly washing being the standard for most.
You might be thinking “damn girl, isn’t all this shampooing and manipulation just going to dry out and break our hair?”
Well….
Popular Misconception Number 1: Frequent hair washing causes dryness.
No, frequent washing will not dry out your hair—unless you’re using the wrong products and following a poor routine.
(For proper guidance, check out this post here.)
This popular misconception stems from a mix of truth and myth.
The Truth: Unlike straight hair, sebum (the natural oil our scalp produces) travels very slowly down type 4 hair strands. Every kink and coil acts as an obstruction, slowing down the process. Sebum is crucial because it forms a coating that protects the hair and keeps it moisturised. This slow distribution of sebum is what makes type 4 hair naturally dry. However, we have leave-in products like conditioners, oils, creams, and gels that mimic sebum’s role by protecting and sealing the hair. Ingredients such as humectants even draw moisture from the environment into the hair.
The Myth: Shampoo is extremely drying and bad for our hair, and we should rarely use it. Thankfully, we are no longer in 2014, and this myth is being phased out. Shampoo is an essential product in our wash routines because it removes buildup, allowing our hair to absorb moisture effectively. This is the exact opposite of what the Curly Girl Method and natural hair YouTube were preaching back in 2014, which is why many of us struggled with dry, crunchy hair back then.
“But why do I need to wash it all over again when I can just add more moisturising products like leave-in creams?” you ask…
This leads us to our next misconception…
Popular Misconception Number 2: Adding more leave-in products moisturises hair
I’m not saying that doing this doesn’t add more moisture. Hear me out first…
There’s a common belief that piling on more leave-in products will keep your hair moisturised. While it’s true that leave-ins and creams can condition and lubricate hair strands, simply adding more product isn’t the solution to maintaining moisture.
Leave-in products and creams work by coating the hair strands, conditioning them, providing lubrication, protecting the hair, and helping to seal in moisture. However, if you keep applying these products without washing your hair regularly, the layers of product build up over time. This buildup creates a barrier that prevents moisture (i.e., water) from penetrating the hair shaft. As a result, adding more leave-in becomes counterproductive because the hair can’t absorb the needed moisture.
When you overextend wash days and continue to reapply products, you might notice that your hair becomes dry more quickly. This is because the buildup prevents proper hydration. Regular washing helps remove this layer of buildup, allowing your hair to absorb moisture effectively.
In essence, frequent washing is key to keeping your hair properly hydrated. It removes buildup and ensures that your hair can take in the moisture it needs. So, instead of relying solely on leave-ins and creams, make sure to incorporate regular washing into your hair care routine to maintain optimal moisture levels.
Popular Misconception Number 3: Washing frequently causes breakage and hair loss.
There is a popular notion in the natural hair community suggesting that frequent washing leads to breakage and hair loss. This misconception stems from the belief that our hair is extremely weak and fragile. While it is true that kinky hair is often the weakest among hair types due to each kink introducing a point of potential weakness, this does not mean that washing frequently is harmful.
In fact, regular washing can be beneficial for natural hair. When natural hair is washed frequently, it stays hydrated and free of buildup that can block moisture absorption. A clean scalp is a healthy scalp, and maintaining a healthy scalp environment is crucial for hair growth. Moreover, frequent washing helps distribute the natural oils (sebum) from your scalp along the hair shaft, which is essential for keeping your hair moisturised and reducing breakage.
The myth that infrequent washing is better for natural hair likely arose from a time when harsh shampoos and improper hair care practices were common. Today, with the availability of gentle, sulphate-free shampoos and proper conditioning routines, washing your hair regularly can help maintain its strength and elasticity.
To sum up, frequent washing, when done correctly with the right products, does not cause breakage and hair loss. On the contrary, it promotes a healthy scalp and hydrated hair, both of which are essential for retaining length and achieving your hair growth goals. So, don’t be afraid to wash your hair regularly—your curls will thank you!
Popular Misconception Number 4: Dirty hair grows faster
One crazy myth in the natural hair community is the belief that dirty hair grows faster. This misconception likely stems from the notion that less frequent washing prevents breakage and retains natural oils, supposedly promoting growth. However, scientific evidence contradicts this belief. In reality, clean hair and a healthy scalp are essential for optimal hair growth. When hair is dirty, scalp follicles can become clogged with dirt, oil, and product build-up, which can lead to issues such as dandruff, scalp irritation, and even hair loss. These conditions can impede hair growth by creating an unhealthy environment for hair follicles. Regular washing with suitable products removes these obstructions, ensuring that the scalp remains clean and healthy. This allows hair follicles to function properly, promoting stronger, longer hair growth.
Many people who believe dirty hair grows faster often attribute this to their experiences with protective styles. They notice significant “growth” after wearing these styles for extended periods without washing. However, what they are actually witnessing is improved length retention rather than accelerated hair growth. Protective styles minimise hair manipulation, reducing breakage and allowing hair to retain its length. While the hair growth rate remains constant, the reduced breakage gives the illusion of faster growth. Therefore, embracing a routine of frequent washing and proper hair care, while also utilising protective styles, is crucial for maintaining both scalp health and achieving maximum hair length.
Misconception Number 5: Washing hair takes up too much time and effort
One common misconception is that washing hair, particularly for those with kinky type 4 hair like us, is a time-consuming and labour-intensive task. This belief can discourage people from incorporating regular washes into their hair care routine. However, with the right approach and products, washing hair doesn’t have to be an arduous process.
Firstly, the perception that washing hair is overly time-consuming often stems from the misconception that it requires multiple steps and extensive time for each step. In reality, all you need is to wash, condition, detangle and style. Quality hair care products and techniques can also streamline the process.
Check out this post here for more detail on the techniques and products for a quick and effective wash day!
Moreover, regular washing actually saves time in the long run. By keeping hair clean and free from build-up, you reduce the need for extensive detangling and damage control, which can be more time-consuming and laborious. A clean scalp and hair are easier to manage and style, resulting in fewer issues and less time spent on maintenance. Thus, investing a bit of time into a consistent washing routine can lead to more manageable hair and a more efficient overall hair care process.
Ultimately, understanding that a well-maintained hair care routine doesn’t have to be overwhelming can help debunk this myth and encourage more people to embrace regular washing as a manageable and beneficial part of their hair care regimen.
Final words
In conclusion, the way we care for our natural hair is rapidly evolving with new research and understanding. It’s important to challenge outdated beliefs and embrace practices that truly benefit our hair health. Frequent washing, contrary to old myths, can actually enhance moisture retention, prevent build-up, and reduce breakage when done with the right products and routine. By staying informed and open to change, we can ensure our hair thrives, celebrating its natural beauty and resilience. So, let’s wash away those misconceptions and step into a new era of natural hair care with confidence and clarity <3
With love,
A type 4 natural ♥