Black hair care is highly under-researched. Or at least, was. This is fact.
Historically, studies on hair care have disproportionately favoured Caucasian or European hair types, leading to a scarcity of products, studies, and literature addressing the unique characteristics of Black, afro hair.
Consequently, individuals with curly, coily, kinky, or afro-textured hair, predominantly Black women and men, have had to navigate with limited research findings. Out of necessity, we’ve forged our own hair care practices, piecing together insights from the sparse research available to better suit the needs of our diverse hair types. Despite the recent increase in natural hair care research, especially after the establishment of the natural hair movement, a lot of this misinformation and misconception is still very much prevalent.
In this blog post, I will only be battling 4 misconceptions which I believe are most prevalent in our community. These are…
- That black hair doesn’t need to be washed frequently
- That black hair cannot grow without protective styles
- That black hair cannot grow long or that it’s hard and you only get it by luck or genes
- That oils and butters and grease moisturise our hair
Now let’s get started!
Black hair doesn’t need to be washed frequently
Take, for instance, the widely acknowledged fact that the unique kinks in our hair strands slow down the travel of sebum, the natural oil produced by our scalps. This natural characteristic means that our hair doesn’t need as frequent washing as straight hair. The rationale is twofold: allowing sebum adequate time to travel down the hair shaft and the resultant lesser tendency for our hair to become excessively greasy compared to straight hair. Unfortunately, while this insight sheds light on the need for less frequent washing, it failed to provide specific guidance on the appropriate washing frequency for our hair type.
This knowledge gap led to a creative but inaccurate narrative that our hair requires minimal washing—some even claiming it’s acceptable to wash only a few times a year. This assertion is UNEQUIVOCALLY incorrect. Period.
I vividly recall a discussion I had with a group of girls in secondary school where a friend disclosed she washed her hair bi-weekly. What followed was a barrage of criticism, with fellow black girls insisting she needed a reality check, emphasising that such a hair care routine was more suited for those with straight hair.
Now I have a question for your guys. Who do you think had the healthiest, fullest and longest hair? Yup, you guessed correctly (I hope). It was my friend, who washed her hair bi-weekly. This experience underscores the importance of questioning preconceived notions about Black hair care and recognizing that individualised routines may defy stereotypes for optimal results.
Why is washing our frequently important?
As I’ve already said multiple times, the process of hair washing is how moisture enters our strands. Shampoo and conditioner both work together to open and close the cuticle to allow moisture inside.
Essentially, shampoo contains surfactants which act to remove any build-up around your hair strand in a process called emulsification. Once build-up is removed, the shampoo will also lift up hair cuticles. This makes the hair more receptive to receiving moisture. Without this crucial step, water is blocked from entering.
How per se?
Well, our products such as conditioners, gels, oils and butters create a film around our strands, which are often hydrophilic (repel water). This is great for keeping water in, but eventually water always leaves the strand in the process of dehydration. This is natural and absolutely nothing to worry about.
It can be very tempting to reach for your bottle of leave-in conditioner to remedy this dryness, especially since before correct hair education became widespread, it was shouted from all rooftops that we should moisturise our hair everyday (whew the ghetto).
How often should we wash our hair then?
The true key is to wash our hair more frequently. To be more specific, every 5-14. Reapplying product only further exasperates dryness in the long run by adding to the layer of build-up. Frequent washing allows for the optimal absorption of water (hydration) as well as constant replenishment.
This is the answer to combating dryness and why our hair should not be washed once every blue moon.
2. That black hair cannot grow without protective styles
The second myth is that natural hair cannot grow without protective styles.
This myth is based on several semi-facts.
The first is that natural hair is allegedly weak. Well, the truth in this is that our type 4, kinky, coily afro-textured hair is in fact the weakest hair type out of all the hair types in the hair type spectrum on curl pattern and race. One reason for this is that each kink in our strand that forms a coil introduces a point of weakness in our hair. The intricate coil formation in type 4 hair introduces points of vulnerability, many more than other hair types.
The only takeaway from this point of research was the myth that as black women with type 4 hair we must always hide and protect our hair.
However, notice how I said ‘weaker’ and ‘weakest’ but never ‘weak’. With a good and consistent hair care routine our hair is not weak and can in fact be strong and retain length.
How we have abused protective styles as a community
It is true that as black people we don’t retain length as well as other hair texture since ours is ‘weaker’ but it is not ‘weak’. Our hair doesn’t need to be coddle away and hidden to survive. All it needs is to be constant TLC 😉
Depriving our hair of nutrients and nourishment all year round doesn’t achieve anything except to actually make our hair weak. Notice how not everyone who wears protective styles 24/7 back to back has luscious healthy hair, but everyone who cares for their hair does. That’s it. That’s the secret to growing hair without protective styles. It is not genes, or luck or being God’s ‘favourite’.
Constant washing and conditioning adds moisture to our hair, it cleanses and moisturises our scalp to create a healthy biome for growth, it adds the essential proteins to our hair to strengthen and repair it and so much more. Doing this does not offer our hair even the slightest chance of weakness. It is our most potent weapon against hair weakness and breakage.
So what’s the solution?
I am not denying that protective styles do help with length retention. In fact as I am writing this, I recently removed my box braids and observed a noticeable difference in my hair length. What I am saying is that they are not a must for retaining length. It’s a common misconception for many Black women to hide their hair in these styles without actively caring for it, assuming it’s the key to optimal hair growth. In reality, what our hair truly requires is consistent care.
The misconception that solely relying on protective styles guarantees hair growth has led many to neglect proper hair care. When results fall short, some believe that only those blessed with good genes can achieve healthy natural hair. This myth has unfortunately deprived numerous Black women of the opportunity to embark on a fulfilling hair journey. “Type 4 on a Mission” aims to challenge and change this narrative, advocating for a focus on holistic hair care rather than exclusively relying on protective styles.
This takes us onto the next myth to burst….
3. That black hair cannot grow long or that it’s hard and you only get it by luck or genes
I am going to keep this section short and sweet because this myth is ridiculous.
The myth that black hair cannot grow long, or that achieving significant length is solely a matter of luck or genetics, needs to be unequivocally dispelled.
The length potential of black hair is not predetermined by luck or genetics but rather by the care and attention it receives, as I’ve said several times on this post already. All hair types, including the diverse range of black hair textures, have the capability to grow long and healthy. The key lies in adopting a consistent and nourishing hair care routine tailored to the unique needs of black hair.
Factors such as proper moisturisation, regular trims to prevent split ends, and a balanced diet rich in essential nutrients contribute significantly to the overall health and length of black hair. It’s essential to challenge and debunk the notion that long, healthy black hair is an elusive feat achievable only by chance or genetic predisposition. With the right care and attention, anyone can nurture their black hair to reach its full length potential.
Check out my blog post on easy methods to add to your routine for length retention here.
4. That oils and butters and grease moisturise our hair
I will also keep this one short and sweet.
The common misconception that oils, butters, and greases effectively moisturise our hair deserves to be clarified. While these substances can provide a temporary sheen and may create the illusion of moisture, they do not possess the intrinsic ability to moisturise the hair on their own.
Moisture, in the context of hair care, refers to water, and it’s crucial to understand that oils and butters primarily function as sealants. They can lock in existing moisture, preventing it from escaping the hair shaft, but they do not hydrate the hair directly. For true hydration, it’s essential to start with water-based products and then use oils or butters to seal in that moisture. Relying solely on oils and butters without a water-based foundation can lead to dry and brittle hair, as the strands lack the essential water content necessary for true moisturization.
It’s time to debunk the myth that oils and butters alone provide sufficient moisture and instead advocate for a balanced and water-centric approach to achieve optimal hair hydration. Check out my blog post on oils and butters for more detail on why oils and butters are not moisturisers here.
Final words
The journey to embracing and caring for our unique black hair involves understanding its characteristics, debunking myths, and adopting practices rooted in knowledge. “Type 4 on a Mission” strives to empower individuals to break free from limiting beliefs, encouraging a holistic approach to hair care that celebrates the diversity and beauty of black hair.
By challenging these myths, we pave the way for a more informed and inclusive narrative, empowering everyone to embark on a fulfilling and personalised hair care journey.
Remember, your hair’s potential is not determined by luck or genes but by the intentional care and attention you invest in it. Here’s to embracing the beauty of our natural hair and cultivating a healthy relationship with our unique tresses.
With love,
A type 4 natural <3