Have you ever scrolled through TikTok and seen a girl with super long hair sharing her hair care routine, only to find comments saying, “This is all lies, it’s just your genes, I can do this too and my hair will still be stuck at 1cm” ?
As a community, we hold hair length very dearly, and many of us aspire to achieve long, healthy hair. However, it can often feel like we hit a plateau, with our hair stuck at a certain length for what feels like forever. This raises the age-old question: Is this due to genetics, or is it about our hair care routines?
This post will expose the truth of whether everyone truly can grow long, Rapunzel-like hair or if it’s only down to genetics.
The hair growth cycle and how genetics is linked:
Hair growth is a cyclical process regulated by the activity of cytokines (hormones), leading to the emergence of hair from our scalps. The rate of hair growth is influenced by factors such as genetics, gender, age, and hormones. It can be slowed down by nutrient deficiencies (such as those seen in anorexia, anaemia, and zinc deficiency) and hormonal changes (such as those occurring during menopause).
As we all know, hair grows at an average rate of 0.5 inches per month.
Our hair grows in three stages. The three recognized stages in hair growth are the anagen, catagen, and telogen phases.
Anagen
The anagen phase is the active growth stage, and at this stage cells at hair follicles divide rapidly and eventually are pushed out into hair strands. This stage can last 2-7 years and the length of this stage is determined by your genetics. It is estimated that around 85% of all hair strands on your head are in this anagen phase.
Remember that 0.5 inch per month average we mentioned before, yeah? This, plus the length of your anagen phase (which in case you forgot, is the active growth stage) together determine your terminal length. This means that we have terminal lengths ranging from 12 inches to 42 inches (using the 0.5 inches of growth per month as a proxy). However, it is only possible to reach this stage if you are somehow the most careful person in the world and can keep your hair in pristine conditions. This means absolutely no breakage, no trims, no cuts, which is quite hard to do if we comb our hair, style our hair or do any kind of manipulation to be honest, especially with our textured hair where every kink introduces a point of weakness.
Catagen
The catagen phase is a transitional period in the hair growth cycle where hair growth starts to decelerate as cell division halts and cells begin to shrink. This phase typically lasts between 2 to 6 weeks, depending on which source you look at.
Telogen
The telogen phase is the final stage of the hair growth cycle, during which hair growth ceases. This phase can last for approximately 2-4 months. During this time, the hair’s blood supply is cut off, causing the hair to be gradually pushed out of the skin and eventually shed.
All these stages happen at different times to each other, which is a relief cos otherwise all our hair would shed at once and we’d have to grow a new head of hair every few years.
What to do next?
To answer your question: Can everyone grow long hair, or is it just determined by genetics? The truth is, not everyone can achieve Rapunzel-like hair. If you’re thinking, “Aha! I knew it was my genes keeping my hair at shoulder length!”—don’t take this as an excuse to become complacent with your hair care routine.
If you believe your hair growth is stunted and stuck at shoulder length, it’s likely you don’t know the length of your anagen phase. Even if it feels like your hair isn’t growing, the key to breaking past this plateau might lie in adjusting your routine rather than accepting “defeat.” There are myriad simple changes you can make that can significantly impact your hair growth which we will get onto in the next section.
If you’re still determined to achieve longer hair (and we certainly don’t want to discourage anyone from their hair goals—after all, we’re your favourite hair care blog, here to offer solutions and support!), note that the changes you can make to your routine fall into two main categories. First, minimise breakage and damage. Second, increase the rate of hair growth during the anagen phase. Combine these two approaches together for mega growth and see where that gets you – By making these adjustments, you might just find yourself closer to achieving the long, healthy hair you dream of. So, keep striving and experimenting with your routine—we’ve got you covered!
Minimising breakage and damage
If you believe your hair growth is stunted, it might be because your hair is breaking at the same rate it is growing. This means that even though your hair is growing at the roots, you won’t see a net change in length due to breakage at the ends.
Don’t worry this can easily be fixed or reduced with just a few changes to your routine:
Deep conditioning:
Deep conditioning treatments penetrate the hair shaft, delivering much-needed nutrients and moisture. This helps to fortify the hair strands, making them stronger and less prone to breakage.
They help reduce split ends, improve elasticity, protect against heat and environmental damage, enhance manageability, improve moisture retention and so much more!
The benefits of deep conditioning are endless. By incorporating this step regularly and consistently, you’re one step closer to achieving pristine hair and your true terminal length whilst getting further and further away from the plateau caused by neglecting your hair care routine or not having one at all 😉
Protecting your ends:
The ends of your hair are the oldest past of your hair. They’ve endured life with you along all the ups and downs, plus all the stress you apply to it such as styling, heat, rushed detangling, hair neglect etc. They’ve really been through it. As a result they’re the weakest part of your hair and hence most susceptible to breakage. For this reason they need the most protection.
There are so many little things you can do to protect your ends that go such a long way:
- Applying a little extra product to your ends to keep them nice and lubricated, and reduce friction between other strands and surfaces e.g. your clothes etc that can slowly wear away at your cuticles.
- If you’re not anti-oils and butters, consider applying a little (and I actually mean a little cos a little really does go a long way) oil or butter to your ends. Not only will this provide an extra protective coating around your hair strands, but again, it adds lubrication to reduce surface friction and friction with other strands.
- Sleeping with a silk/satin bonnet or pillowcase. These have a smooth surface which minimise friction and hence won’t wear away your hair like cotton would.
- Keeping your ends tucked away in protective styles such as braids, twists, cornrows etc.
- Applying a heat protectant before using any direct heat tools can make a significant difference in protecting your hair from damage. Always utilise it to safeguard your strands!
Wash hair frequently:
By washing your hair regularly, you help to replenish its moisture, remove build-up that can block moisture absorption, and maintain a healthy scalp environment. Consistent hydration is key for type 4 hair, as it enhances elasticity and strength, making it less susceptible to breakage. Incorporating regular washes into your routine, paired with a good moisturising conditioner, ensures that your hair stays soft, manageable, and resilient.
For an in-depth look at the importance of wash day and how it hydrates your hair, check out this post here.
Increasing hair growth rate
Now let’s say that maybe you are taking great care of your hair and you have maintained it in pristine conditions where you receive little to no breakage and require little to no cuts and have reached your terminal length, which you are not satisfied with. How could you potentially still increase your length?
The answer is to increase the rate of hair growth during the anagen phase.
Now, I have to add a disclaimer before continuing: the research behind this topic is still scarce and inconclusive, a lot still needs to be done, but this doesn’t mean that you cannot safely try out stuff for yourself as sometimes scientific research can be slow to catch up.
Essential Oils
Did you know that certain essential oils can work wonders for your hair growth? Let’s delve into two fantastic examples: lavender oil and peppermint oil.
Lavender Oil: Research has shown that lavender oil can increase the number and depth of hair follicles, as well as prolong the anagen (growth) phase of hair in mice. This might be due to its ability to upregulate the expression of insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) and β-catenin, two key molecules that promote hair follicle development and growth.
Peppermint Oil: Peppermint oil is another powerhouse. It has been found to induce a rapid anagen stage, and increase dermal thickness, follicle number, and follicle depth in mice. This is likely because it boosts the expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), which plays a crucial role in hair growth.
It is important to note that these studies were conducted in mice, which if it isn’t obvious to you, they have a very different physiology to us humans, so we may not see similar effects. However, it is pretty harmless to test essential oil use on your hair at home (but if you are pregnant please consult your doctor first. To use essential oils, dilute them in your favourite carrier oil. A good rule of thumb is to make sure the essential oil mix is 1% of the carrier solution volume e.g. 1 ml of total essential oil mix per 100ml of carrier oil.
Incorporating these essential oils into your hair care routine could help you grow your hair faster than the normal rate. Give them a try and see the difference they can make!
Caffeine
Along with essential oils, caffeine to is becoming a jack of all trades and
In 2007, a laboratory study investigated the effects of caffeine on hair growth, specifically focusing on its impact on DHT in male hair follicles. The study found that caffeine not only blocked DHT but also prolonged the anagen phase, the hair growth stage. A longer anagen phase allows your hair more time to grow, increasing its length potential. To benefit from these effects, look for shampoos and conditioners that contain caffeine. Additionally, you can try black tea rinses, as black tea contains a small amount of caffeine that is safe and effective for your hair.
Final words
So, can everyone grow long hair, or is it all down to genetics? The truth is, not everyone can achieve long hair.
While a combination of genetics and proper hair care influences hair length, your genes ultimately determine your hair’s maximum potential length.
By following a consistent and healthy hair care routine, you can ensure that your hair reaches its fullest potential. Embrace your unique hair journey, focus on maintaining its health, and celebrate the progress you make along the way. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair, regardless of length!
With love,
A type 4 natural ♥♥♥
Reference list
Fischer, T.W., Hipler, U.C. and Elsner, P. (2007). Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair folliclesin vitro. International Journal of Dermatology, 46(1), pp.27–35. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03119.x.
Junior, A.C.L. and Bastos, C. de C.B. (2024). Essential Oils for Hair Health: A Critical Mini-Review of the Current Evidence and Future Directions. Brazilian Journal of Health Aromatherapy and Essential Oil, [online] 1(1), pp.bjhae3–bjhae3. doi:https://doi.org/10.62435/2965-7253.bjhae.2024.bjhae3.
Pascal Kintz, Salomone, A., Vincenti, M. and Academic Press (Londyn (2016). Hair analysis in clinical and forensic toxicology. Amsterdam Etc.: Elsevier, Academic Press, , Cop.
Salim, D.T. (n.d.). Nutrition and hair health | The Trichological Society. [online] The Trichological Society. Available at: https://www.hairscientists.org/hair-and-scalp-conditions/nutrition-and-hair-health.