So it’s 2024, and you realise that the natural hair movement is no longer just a “trend.” Natural hair is becoming the new normal as relaxers are being quite quickly phased out as more and more people have or are transitioning to natural.
Even my mother, who was sooo anti-natural hair for most of my natural hair journey is now slowly transitioning!! Can I get a whoop-whoop 🥳
So you want to also take part in this great shift but have no idea where to start?
Well, you have two options: First you stop chemically treating your hair (or straightening if you’re recovering from heat damage) and then you can either shave your head completely bald or if that scares you, you can keep all your current hair length and maintain two hair texture as you grow out your natural kinky, curly hair (as my mum is currently doing). This latter option is called transitioning to natural, which is what this blog post is all about, answering any burning questions you may have and offers tips to make your transitioning journey as smooth as possible.
How to transition from relaxed to natural?
As previously stated, transitioning to natural from relaxer is the process through which you stop relaxing your hair to let your natural, unprocessed hair grow out from the roots. Your natural hair and relaxed hair will be separated by the line of demarcation (The line where your natural hair new growth and relaxed hair meet). This is very delicate and very prone to knotting… a very bad combination if you couldn’t tell already.
Knots form at this point due to the difference in hair texture and they are also difficult to comb out the kinkier and denser your hair is, especially as someone like yourself that has been used to the quick 30 second detangling of straight relaxed hair (I miss those days every wash day sigh).
Tip 1: Detangle hair with lots of water and lots of conditioner! Dime size won’t do anything for you anymore
To address this, it’s vital to recognize the distinctions between caring for natural and relaxed hair. While detangling dry hair might be acceptable for relaxed hair, it’s not the case for transitioning or natural hair. Attempting to detangle dry, natural or transitioning hair can lead to breakage and frustration. Our natural kinks and coils are more manageable with water, providing elasticity for easier detangling. Adding conditioner further enhances tensile strength, reducing breakage. To tackle this challenge, use water, conditioner, and a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush to gently detangle your new natural texture.
Tip 2: Prioritise scalp health!
Do you have relaxed hair and ever wondered why your hair isn’t full and why you experience so much shedding and hair loss? This could be genetic or it’s probably the relaxer itself.
Relaxer has been known to cause several scalp issues including hair fall, chemical scalp burns and pain as a result of the strong chemicals utilised in relaxers (more here). This chemical damage with long-term use can weaken and damage the hair follicle, impacting hair growth.
This might sound scary to you relaxed girlies but this can be remedied and the first step I assume you’re already doing if you’re reading this post, is to stop relaxing completely. The next is enhancing scalp health. You can do this with some of nature’s gifts to our natural hair.
Oils
This gift is oils (controversial I know, lol, but I cannot deny its benefits and what they have done for my hair and the hair of countless other women). Oils contain essential nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids that nourish the scalp and hair follicles. This nourishment promotes healthy hair growth and strengthens the hair shaft. They also have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties that can calm irritation and redness caused by the relaxer treatment. This can help alleviate discomfort and promote healing. Additionally, massaging oils into the scalp improves blood circulation, which helps deliver nutrients to the hair follicles and encourages healthy hair growth. Scalp stimulation also helps to relax tense scalp muscles and reduce stress.
There are so many oils to choose from to buy or to mix yourself!
Among these remedies is the famous rosemary oil, which recent studies have shown to directly combat hair loss. In a 2015 trial (here), this essential oil was compared to minoxidil in human subjects with androgenic alopecia (male or female pattern baldness) and was found to stimulate more new hair growth than minoxidil without any side effects. Please remember to dilute this inside a carrier oil of your choice e.g. castor oil, olive oil, almond oil etc, or you will be doing more damage to your scalp (a safe bet is 10 drops or below of rosemary or any other essential oil per 100ml of carrier oil).
This isn’t a must if you are going natural, but it will for sure help with your scalp and consequently natural hair health.
Tip 3: Masks, masks and more masks!
As you embark on your journey from relaxed to natural hair, one of the most crucial steps you can take is to prioritise deep conditioning. This essential practice not only nourishes your hair but also helps to strengthen it from within, laying the foundation for healthy, vibrant natural curls.
Moisturising Deep Conditioning Masks:
During the transition process, your hair may experience dryness, brittleness, and breakage as it adjusts to its new texture. Moisturising deep conditioning masks are a lifesaver in combating these issues. These masks are formulated with rich, hydrating and nourishing ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil, aloe vera and glycerin, which penetrate deep into the hair shaft to replenish moisture and restore elasticity. Incorporating a weekly deep conditioning treatment into your routine will help keep your hair hydrated, soft, and manageable.
Protein Treatments:
It’s a common observation that new growth after a relaxer tends to have higher porosity (learn more about hair porosity here), often attributed to the potential damage caused by the chemical relaxer to the scalp and hair follicles. This damage can disrupt the structure of the hair cuticle, leading to increased porosity, which allows for easier absorption of moisture and other substances into the hair shaft.
Over time, as the hair grows out and transitions to its natural texture, the porosity of the hair may change. With proper care and maintenance, including moisturising treatments, protein treatments, and gentle handling, the natural hair may gradually regain its optimal porosity level.
So, in addition to moisture, protein is another essential component for strong, healthy hair. Protein treatments help to reinforce the structure of the hair shaft, preventing breakage and promoting elasticity. While transitioning from relaxed to natural hair, your strands may be more susceptible to damage due to the chemical process of relaxing. Occasional protein treatments can help fortify your hair, minimising the risk of breakage and promoting overall hair health. You can start with monthly protein treatments, or bi-weekly alternate between using a protein-free deep conditioner and a deep conditioner containing small amounts of protein (this is conditioners with proteins lower down the list). Look for hydrolysed protein and amino acids which tend to end with the suffix ‘amine.’
It’s important to strike the right balance between moisture and protein in your hair care regimen. Too much moisture without adequate protein can lead to over-softening of the hair, making it prone to breakage. Conversely, excessive protein without enough moisture can leave the hair feeling dry and brittle. Pay attention to your hair’s needs and adjust your treatments accordingly.
Tip 4: Washing and styling
In terms of styling and general hair care, transitioning from relaxed hair care to natural and transitioning hair care can also be seen as a challenge to some. They are so different; relaxed hair is very low maintenance and easy to style; natural and transitioning hair on the other hand is a whole other story.
With natural hair you must learn patience, gentleness and care. Gone are the 5 minute wash days which will now range from 20 mins, if you’re lucky, to 3 hours. The literal meaning of washing and going doesn’t really exist on our side like it does for relaxed hair. After washing there is a whole other process of styling including gels, mousse, butters, raking, twisting, braiding, smoothing, diffusing and/or waiting 2-3 business days for hair to air dry. Sounds like a lot, but don’t worry it’s actually a lot of fun and the resulting styles are absolutely gorg.
( P.S. If you’ve watched older videos or read older blogs on natural hair care, don’t worry, wash day is no longer a 9-5 activity hallelujah, we’ve learnt better 😀(more on my blog post here)).
Natural hair style glossary:
- Wash n go – this is a curly hair styling method where the hair is washed, conditioned, and styled while wet by raking gel and smoothing gel or mousse through strands. This is to enhance its natural curl pattern by eliminating frizz and achieving a defined look.
- Twist out – here hair is typically divided into small sections, and each section is twisted tightly from the root to the ends. Allow the twists to set for a period of time, usually overnight or until the hair is completely dry. Then carefully unravel the twists to reveal a pattern of defined curls or waves.
- Braid out – here hair is typically divided into small sections, and each section is braided tightly from the root to the ends. Allow the braids to set for a period of time, usually overnight or until the hair is completely dry. Then carefully unravel the braids to reveal a pattern of defined curls or waves.
But before we get to this stage, we still have to go through the transitioning process.
With transitioning hair, the two textures are quite drastically different. I don’t know about you but this made me hate wearing my hair outside of protective styles and buns. Despite this, it is still possible to blend the two textures together. I’m talking twist outs, braid outs, flexi rods and perm rods! These set styles create a curl pattern of their own which will mask the fact that you have two very different textures. This allows you to wear and style your hair in a way that still makes you feel good and confident. God knows how tired I was of wearing buns all the time 🙁
Style tips:
- Make sure you have a good hair mousse to hold the style and you should be good!
- For twist outs and braids out to get curlier ends, try using a perm rod at the end of each twist or braid. This is to avoid straight and wispy ends for a flawless finish.
- Ensure hair fully dry before unravelling your chosen set style or all your efforts will have been in vain.
Tip 5: Protective styling to give yourself a break lol
Following on from the previous tip, styling and caring for transitioning hair isn’t always easy. For this reason, a break is very well deserved sometimes. You can achieve this with protective styling. Now don’t get me wrong, protective styling doesn’t equal neglect. Nope! Hair care still continues, especially as someone transitioning to natural from a relaxer it is even more important to keep up with your routine to maintain a healthy scalp for healthy hair growth for your new natural locks!
Check out this blog post here for more details on how to care for your hair in protective styles. Below is a quick look book on past protective styles I’ve done for style inspo 🙂
Tip 6: Document your journey, track your growth, it is so encouraging
Transitioning to natural hair brings the joy of discovering your curls for the first time and witnessing your growth. Yet, it can also feel overwhelming, with moments of doubt about your growth progress. Combat this by taking pictures to track your journey.
It’s such a good feeling to look back at pictures and be like “ooh my hair really did grow a lot dayum!” or “oooh look at how pretty my curls look :)“
Tip 7: Religiously study this blog 😉
My next tip is for you to continue reading my blog. Read up on all my older blog posts and anything new to come! This will teach you all the basics of hair care that you will need to know to make natural hair care simple and effective. So stay tuned!
Tip 8: Block out the hate sis
Just a few years ago, going natural was frowned upon, especially by the older generation. My decision to embrace my natural hair was met with scepticism and criticism from some peers and family members. Despite the doubts, I stayed true to myself and my journey. Now, those same individuals who once doubted me can’t help but admire the beauty and confidence that radiates from my natural hair. It’s a powerful reminder that staying true to yourself is always worth it, despite the naysayers. If you’re facing similar challenges, remember to stay true to yourself. These same people will later ask you what you use to get your hair so healthy and long ;).
Tip 9: Big chop whenever you’re ready!
Could be 6 months or it could be 2 years, whatever you’re comfortable with! The average transition time is generally under 3 years as within this time your natural hair would have grown substantially to a length you should be comfortable with!
Don’t dwell too much on the timings as that makes time appear to go slower. I transitioned for 17 months, but these 17 months felt like 17 years because I was just so angsty to have long natural hair already. Constantly keeping track of my hair growth instead of embracing the journey felt like watching paint dry 😭. Don’t be like me and instead enjoy the journey and the process. Time will go so much faster this way!
Final words
And there you have it—nine simple tips to guide you through your transition to natural hair! I hope these tips prove helpful as you embark on your journey. Remember to embrace every step and enjoy the transformation along the way. Happy transitioning! <3
With love,
A type 4 natural ♥